Bootlegger Ristorante & Lounge

I walked into the Bootlegger at 5025 S. Eastern on a recent afternoon and could hardly see. It must be the darkest restaurant in Vegas with the only light provided by small, flickering lamps set on each table! The woods are also dark and rich. The table cloths are red. Funky, jazzy instrumental music form the fifties softly spills out of the restaurant's speakers. There's a sunken dining area, along with an elevated one, a fireplace and 2 cozy rooms. Several large, old-time photographs hang throughout the eatery, giving the Bootlegger a homey, family feel. A small bar with video poker machines sits under a red and white colored canopy awning. Without looking at the menu, I know I'm in a classic "red-sauce" joint. I smile and feel happy.

I seat myself. The place is about 1/2 full, with mostly older couples. A red-shirted server quickly brings a menu and than water. I notice that there is no Caesar Salad offered and that they have lunch omelettes. This is unusual, but I like it. I also see that several items have stars next to them. They connote dishes that have been prepared for those on low-fat and low cholesterol diets. This is smart and I'm applaud the Bootlegger for offering these dishes, as healthy alternatives to the normally "heavy" Southern Italian cooking. Low-fat dining is all the rage in California, but here in Vegas, its not happening nearly enough. With this said, I bypass the healthy and dive right into the Mozzarella Fritto appetizer ($4.95) and a plate of Angel Hair with meat sauce and sausage ($6.75).

 The waiter tells me that the Bootlegger has been owned by the Perri and Hunt family "forever." Part of that Hunt clan is former County Commissioner and now Lieutenant Governor Lorraine Hunt. Despite the restaurant's age, I can't spot a single rip or tear, spot or stain. It's as polished and well-kept as Lorraine Hunt herself.

Three warm rolls arrive first. They're crusty and wholesome - exactly what you'd expect to find in a neighborhood Italian joint. The 4 mozzarella sticks are next. They're fried golden brown and stuffed with lots of this mild white cheese. They come with a small dish of a rather bland marinara sauce. I say "kick it up" with more onions, garlic and of course oregano! The sticks alone are excellent and I ended up taking 2 of them home for a tasty midnight snack. My plate of pasta is generous and well cooked. The sauce is "ragu Bolognese"  - thick and red, full of small meat chunks. The sausage is well seasoned, but again lacks the spiciness that I prefer.

I ask and my server brings me a dinner menu. I count close to one hundred items - it's a huge offering! Dishes range from the "bucket of spaghetti" ($16.95) that serves 4 to the Veal "Lorraine" ($16.50). The prices are reasonable. The waiter also tells me that at night, the Bootlegger opens its second dining area. I peaked in before leaving. It's full large booths and looks real comfortable. There is also a "carry out counter with a separate entrance.

I'm so thankful that restaurants such as The Bootlegger are alive and well. It's an honest to goodness neighborhood, Italian restaurant. No doubt it's survived for all these years because it offers good food at good prices in a pleasant atmosphere. In these days of light and bright "cookie-cutter" chain eateries, I say give me some darkness!

THE BOOTLEGGER 5025 S. Eastern Ave. (Tropicana Rd.) - (702)736-4939

HOURS: Tuesday - Friday, 11am -11pm; Saturday and Sunday, 4 - 11pm

FOOD: A huge selection of Southern Italian dishes. Also some low-fat items

SERVICE: Attentive and friendly. On site hostess/manager during lunch.

ATMOSPHERE: Dark and rich. Decor has a turn-of-the-century feel  PRICES Reasonable

WINE LIST: Large with good pricing

WEBSITE: http://www.bootleggerlasvegas.com