Sam's American at the Bellagio
I arrive at Bellagio shortly before noon with a knawing, empty stomach. I decided the morning before to tackle my first buffet of the new year. Why not try the newest and probably the most expensive in town (breakfast $8.95, lunch $12.50, and dinner $19.50). In anticipation of my all-you-can feast, I fasted for over 24 hours.
Bellagio is always busy. I walked through the New Frontier a few days earlier and felt lonely. As I wade through the throngs, I see exactly what I fear most - a long line in front of the buffet! I curse under my breath and think "no way." I will not bring myself to "wait in line to dine," especially at a buffet. I quickly think about my dining options. Despite its size, Bellagio only has 5 choices when it comes to lunch. I nod and make a beeline to one of them - Sam's American.
Executive chef Sam DeMarco has been one of the hottest tickets in New York City for some time now. His eclectic eatery is favored by chefs and foodies alike. The menu features seasonal, modern American cuisine, but with many ethnic and other cultural influences tossed in. He brings his considerable skills and reputation to our desert with Sam's American.
His Bellagio restaurant can best be described if you first think of the old "Flinstones" cartoon. The ceilings here resemble a cave. The furnishings are simplistic, yet have a nice funkiness to them. The Go's Go's are playing in the background and the whole place reminds me of Mr. Lucky's 24/7 at the Hard Rock Hotel.
I'm immediately taken to a table for 2. I ask for a booth and without a beat, the hostess leads me to one. I normally don't hog up a booth when dining alone, but less than 1/3 of the tables were occupied and I kinda wanted to spread out some work. As I scanned the room, I noticed actress Glen Close sitting with a man in a corner booth. I'm normally not a star gazer, but I made an exception. There are 2 giant window in one of the dining rooms. They allow diners to watch the cascading masses in the casino, but their tint precludes them from staring at those eating.
The menu at Sam's American lists several appetizers including Indian-style crab cake, warm goat cheese cake and Middle Eastern salmon tartare. I chose the crab-cake ($13.50). Lunch entrees range from cheeseburgers (13 bucks!) to fresh fish and several specials. I opt for the duck ravioli special ($14.00) and a cup of fries ($5.00). Obviously the prices at Sam's and most Bellagio restaurants are higher than most, but hey it's Bellagio - surely one of the most expensive and one of the most gorgeous hotels in the world. With that said, when you're paying $35.00 dollars for lunch, it better be great!
My waiter started me with a crudités of pickled vegetables. It had a delicious sweet taste and proved a nice dipping accompaniment to the batons of hard bread also left at the table. While I dipped, 2 servers crashed into one another right in front of me. No harm no foul, except some of a colored martini splashed onto my table. It would stay there until noticed by my server at the end of my meal. The medium- sized crab cake comes on top of a base of vegetables pressed together. Lots of peas, tomatoes and potatoes. They were excellent. The crab cake is lukewarm, but it has a spiciness that gives off plenty of heat The duck raviolis numbered about 9. After one bite, I knew I was tasting something unique. The duck gave the raviolis a gamey texture and taste. They were served in a broth reduction that obviously came from duck. Small chunks of apples lightened the dish nicely. I found the fries a bit disappointing. They were curly, salty and oily, and came stuffed in a steel cup. No condiments were brought and I found them hard to pull out of the container. I guess the trick is to pour the fries onto the wax paper.
Sam's American Dinner menu features several nightly specials including braised lamb shank, Lobster Fra Diablo and venison meatloaf. They range in price from $18 to $24. Main courses are priced about the same and feature Tuna Mignon Au Poivre, rotisserie Long Island duck and steamed black bass. A five-course tasting menu is also available at $48.00.
I found my service at Sam's American to be prompt and professional. Several managers were visible throughout and it appeared they knew what they were doing. I asked my server "if Chef Sam DeMarco spent much time there?" He said "he's here right now." I looked into the kitchen several times but did not see him, but I would have to believe he is here often because the dishes are unique and probably difficult to create and make well. As in most places with out-of-town chefs, I assume the kitchen is much better when Sam's there.
I couldn't help but steal one more glance at Glenn Close before leaving. I spent about 40 bucks on my lunch, but I enjoyed it and the wonderful atmosphere at Sam's American. My tummy also thanked me for sparing it from what would have been several more dishes and a gorge fest at the buffet!
SAM'S AMERICAN at Bellagio - (702)693-8144
RESERVATIONS: Recommended for weekends and parties of six or more
HOURS: Lunch noon -3 p.m. seven days a week. Dinner 5:30-11 p.m. Sunday-Thursday and 5:30-midnight Friday-Saturday
DECOR: Welcome to a 90's version of Fred and Wilma's favorite eatery
PRICES: Expensive
WINE/LIQUOR: A solid wine list with some good buys. Plenty of higher priced, trendy drinks
